Scientists break new ground with wave theory for
sea defences
Waves crashing violently on the seashore may look spectacular,
but the continuous battering of harbour walls, jetties and sea defences
can take its toll on the structure. And as every wave is unique,
it's impossible to predict the long-term effects of repeated violent
waves on, say, a sea wall. So how can you maintain and repair structures
that are constantly pounded by waves if you don't understand how
or what damage is being done? Researchers in the School of Mathematics
at the University of East Anglia are teaming up with engineers from
all over the world to try and come up with a solution.
Waves can exert pressures of up to 10 tonnes on a square metre
of a wall. But despite causing this huge pressure, they last only
a fraction of a second. This makes it difficult to make any measurements
in the wave and on the surface of the wall at the point of impact.
To make things even more complicated, debris lying on the sea bed
and cracks in the wall will also affect the behaviour of the wave.
So engineers use artificial "wave tanks" to try and mimic
the complicated real-life situation in the laboratory. Using this
method, researchers have explored what happens in cracks in the
surface of a wall. No-one has known until recently how these might
influence the effect of the wave hitting the wall.
Researchers at UEA and Queen's University Belfast have found that
tiny air bubbles in the water inside deep crevices may reduce the
pressure of the impacting wave deep inside the structure. So this
must be accounted for in all the theoretical calculations of the
effects of waves, as most real-life situations involve water which
contains lots of air bubbles.
This work can be applied in a variety of ways. For example, it
may be useful in helping to advise on maintenance strategies for
existing sea defences. Many of these are Victorian, so are in need
of repair. In some cases (such as in the Peterhead Breakwater in
Scotland), the mortar between the concrete blocks has been washed
away. This has left deep cracks in the wall. Should these cracks
be filled, or are they serving a useful purpose in helping to reduce
the pressure deep in the wall exerted by the waves? This is one
question that the UEA mathematicians hope to address using their
ideas and calculations.
Another application is helping to explain the failure of sea defences.
Often, (such as at Overstrand in North Norfolk), blocks of granite
are placed at the bottom of cliffs to help absorb the huge energy
from the waves before it hits the cliffs. However, this strategy
doesn't always work, for reasons that aren't fully understood. The
UEA researchers hope that by understanding what causes the blocks
to break up in some cases but not others could go some way to help
improve sea defences.
One of the benefits of applying mathematics to these problems is
that it is relatively inexpensive. Collaborations between mathematicians
and coastal engineers will hopefully improve out practical understanding
of sea walls and protect us better from the ravages of the sea.
© Dr Belinda Clarke 2001
This Article originally appeared as part of the "Science
on your Doorstep" series, published in the Eastern Daily Press
3rd February 2001

NRP
Partners
Partners of the Norwich
Research Park include the John Innes Centre (JIC), the Institute
of Food Research (IFR), the University of East Anglia (UEA), the
Sainsbury Laboratory (SL) and the Norfolk and Norwich University
Hospital (N&NUH).
Web addresses of the NRP partners
www.jic.bbsrc.ac.uk
www.ifr.bbsrc.ac.uk
www.uea.ac.uk
www.nnuh.nhs.uk
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